Buses stream in from Naples, depositing thousands of visitors in vibrant ski gear into the quaint mountain town of Roccaraso in central Italy. Each winter weekend, the streets buzz with day-trippers, and the modest slopes teem with locals from Naples eager for snowy adventures and crisp mountain air.
“We don’t ski, but we enjoy sledding. Sometimes I even slide with a plastic bag under me!” shares Anna Lippolis, a 58-year-old hairdresser sporting a retro pink ski jacket and silver earrings. She boards the 30-euro round-trip bus from Naples on a typical Sunday to escape routine and relax after a demanding week.
Modest Resorts Amid Olympic Spotlight
Away from Italy’s premier Olympic venues, many residents discover winter sports at accessible spots like Roccaraso. However, the influx of visitors creates friction with locals, highlighting challenges for mountain areas in handling growing crowds during periods of unreliable snowfall.
The sole walkable ski run at 1,200 meters elevation in Roccaraso remains shuttered, now serving as a play area for children. Visitors access a chairlift for panoramic views, then descend via foot, sled, or lift. “This marks my son’s first encounter with snow,” notes Raimundo Di Bello, 68, while waiting in line for the lift. “Being in the mountains feels wonderful.”
Just a short drive away, the Alto Sangro resort offers over 100 kilometers of slopes reaching 2,100 meters, attracting 500,000 annual visitors. Skiers there often voice frustrations with day-trippers who prioritize lounging in the sun and sipping spritz cocktails amid blaring music from nearby speakers.
“Non-skiers arrive and disrupt the natural setting, the environment, and the essence of the sport,” observes Kikka Misso Gentile, a 41-year-old Neapolitan with a vacation home in nearby Rivisondoli.
Efforts to Control Visitor Surge
Last year’s viral social media call from influencer Rita Di Crescenzo drew over 250 buses and 12,000-13,000 people in a single day, thrusting the issue into international spotlight. Officials responded by capping bus arrivals at 50 per day, as seen on a recent Sunday, and stationing wardens to oversee crowds.
Nicola Pitucci, a 46-year-old electrician residing in Roccaraso, reports a noticeable uptick in visitors over recent years alongside erratic snow patterns. “Everyone deserves snow-filled enjoyment,” he acknowledges, “but restrictions make sense—the town lacks the capacity for 50,000 people, with insufficient facilities and infrastructure.”
Soaring Costs and Environmental Shifts
Many day visitors explain they skip skiing due to its steep price tag—often 200 euros per person daily, including transport, rentals, and passes. Though more affordable than in France or Switzerland, ski pass fees in Italy have climbed up to 10 percent in select areas, per consumer group Altroconsumo’s December alert, further limiting access.
The sector demonstrates strong resilience, as noted by tourism analyst Laurent Vanat, with record-breaking seasons in 2022-23 and 2023-24. This holds true despite climate-driven snow reduction shortening European resort operations. Over 90 percent of Italy’s slopes rely on artificial snow production, including Roccaraso’s expansive system, according to environmental organization Legambiente.
“Artificial snow serves as a temporary fix, not a long-term answer, and warmer temperatures will complicate it further,” states Antonio Montani, president of the Italian Alpine Club. He advocates for diversification in resorts, pointing out that lower-elevation sites like Roccaraso excel in hiking and cycling. “Apennine mountains boast stunning, untamed beauty alongside rich history, culture, and art,” Montani adds.
Unique Alternatives on the Horizon
For thrill-seekers, Sicily presents a distinctive option: skiing an active volcano. Mount Etna gains traction among global tourists, captivated by its otherworldly terrain. Local guide Mirto Monaco describes it as “lava, snow, and sea—a one-of-a-kind adventure.”
